Arenes de Lutece

One of my favorite spots in Paris, the Arenes de Lutece – they were built during the first century AD, they are a Gallo-Roman amphitheater, composed of a sunken area for gladiator combats and a theatrical scene for performances. The theater could sit 17000 spectators – which was more than the entire population of Lutece! The scene was propped up on a podium 41 meters (135ft) long. The arena was probably active until the first destruction of Lutece, at the end of the third century.

The king of France, Chilperic had the arenas fixed in 577 AD and had plays there. The arenas became a cemetery and was completely filled in after the construction of the wall of Philippe Auguste in 1210 AD.
Centuries later no one remembered the exact location of the Arenas although the area was name after them. The opening of rue Monge (1860 – 1869) allowed Theodore Vacquer to find the first traces of the Northern part of the Arenas (on the far side of the picture below).

They were completely dug out by the ‘Companie Generale des Omnibus’ between 1883 and 1885 when they were trying to build a tramway depot.
Victor Hugo and Victor Duruy were part of the supporters for the historical preservation of the Arenas. Hugo addressed a letter to the President of the City council.

I generously translated his letter for you:

“Paris, july 27th 1883,
Mister President,
It isn’t possible that Paris, the forthcoming city, would forego the living proof of the past city. The past brings the future. The Arenas are the antique symbol of the great city. They are a unique monument.
The city council that would destroy them will in a way destroy itself. Preserve the Arenas of Lutece. Conserve them at all costs. You would make this a very useful action, and, even better, you will set a great example.
I shake your hands.”

A couple days later the council takes care of the ruins and they are classified as a historical monument. After dismantling the tramway and it’s depot in 1916 the anthropologist Louis Capitan continues the restoration after the first world war and finishes them in 1918. Unfortunately the construction of surrounding buildings don’t allow further restoration.

I am glad that the Arenas were kept as a historical heritage of Paris, it feels almost exotic to sit on the 2000 years old steps to have lunch, read or both.
So if you didn’t plan to see them you should consider spending an hour there! It’s an easy walk from the metro Place Monge or Jussieu.

Hotel recommendations:

Villa d’Estrees – 4 star boutique hotel, ideal place!

Crystal hotel - 3 star boutique hotel, well located in the heart of Saint Germain.

Cujas - 2 star budget hotel well placed next to the Patheon.